Koller View 4/21

15 Preview of the Jewellery auction on 1 December 2021 Luxury brands and noble provenances Our auction of precious jewellery features distinguished examples from the world’s leading jewellers as well as exceptional historical gems. A rare Mystery-Set bracelet (ill. 4) by Van Cleef & Arpels is decorated with princess- and brilliant-cut diamonds totalling 42.00 ct. The same maker created a yellow gold and diamond parrot brooch (ill. 9). Tiffany & Co. signed an elegant diamond ring set with an octagonal fancy yellow dia- mond of 8.45 ct. (ill. 6). An attractive group of valuable jewellery pieces comes from noble estates. An elegant rivière necklace, circa 1880, decorated with circular-cut diamonds totalling circa 18.00 ct. and an oval old-cut diamond of circa 4.50 ct., once belonged to Clara Baroness of Leon- rod, née Sazenhofen, wife of the “Obersthofmeister” at the Bavarian Royal Palace and lady-in-waiting at the court of King Ludwig III of Bavaria (ill. 3). Grand Duchess Anna Feodorovna of Elfenau was the original owner of a gold parure decorated with tur- quoises from circa 1840 (ill. 2). The set, comprising a necklace, bracelet, pendant/brooch, girandole ear- rings and an additional pair of brooches, was inherited by Maria Victoria Mauritia von Mülinen and has since remained in the same family. A ‘carnet de bal’ decorated with diamonds from the late 18 th century is enhanced with polychrome enam- elled miniatures of romantic scenes on both sides (ill. 1). As a special feature, it has a hidden third miniature, a portrait of Austrian Emperor Joseph II. At that time, such cases contained fine ivory leaves on which a list of dances and dance partners was recorded. Accord- ing to a handwritten document, this charming object belonged to Marie-Antoinette, the sister of Joseph II and wife of King Louis XVI. 4 M ystery-Set diamond bracelet, by Van Cleef & Arpels, circa 1990. Platinum. With princess- and brilliant-cut diamonds totalling ca. 42.00 ct. Estimate: CHF 130 000/200 000 5 M uzo emerald and diamond ring, circa 1960. Platinum. Colombian Muzo emerald of ca. 5.70 ct within a diamond surround. Estimate: CHF 50 000/80 000 6 F ancy diamond ring, by Tiffany &Co, circa 1997. Yellow gold. Octagonal diamond of 8.45 ct, Fancy Yellow/VS1. Estimate: CHF 80 000/120 000 7 C eylon sapphire and diamond ring, circa 1950. Platinum. Very fine, Ceylon sapphire of ca. 25.00 ct, not heated. Estimate: CHF 90 000/140 000 8 D iamond and gold evening bag, circa 1970. White gold. Estimate: CHF 11 000/16 000 9 Diamond parrot clip brooch, by Van Cleef & Arpels, circa 1996. Yellow gold. With yellow and white diamonds totalling ca. 8.10 ct. Estimate: CHF 15 000/20 000 4–8 9