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17 FOR FURTHER INFORMATION JEWELLERY Carla Süssli suessli@kollerauctions.com ONLINE CATALOGUES www.kollerauctions.com 1 Emerald and diamond ear pendants, circa 1925. Platinum. With two emerald briolettes totalling circa 12.80 ct. Estimate: CHF 9 000/14 000 2 Emerald and diamond ring, circa 1930. Platinum. Colombian emerald of circa 10.20 ct. Estimate: CHF 40 000/60 000 3 Burma ruby and diamond ring. France, circa 1925. Platinum. Burma ruby of circa 3.20 ct. Estimate: CHF 20 000/30 000 4 Diamond bracelet. France, circa 1930. Platinum 950. Diamonds totalling circa 15.00 ct. Estimate: CHF 10 000/15 000 In the so-called Roaring Twenties, designers began to move away from the naturalistic forms of Art Nou- veau, and within a very short time an alternative style developed as Art Deco. Floral and biomorphic motifs gave way to a period in which technical precision, strict geometry and opulent materials became increasingly important. Everyday life – and with it many products typical of the time – became faster and more dynam- ic, more objective and visionary. All eyes were focused Preview of the Watches and Jewellery Auctions on 2 December 2020 Art Deco: elegance meets geometry on the future, and newness was highly valued. Even thoughmany Art Deco design conceptions came from the USA, the Czech Republic, Austria and Italy, France was the undisputed centre of this new trend. Between the two world wars, creators such as the jeweller René Boivin, the Maison Boucheron, the award-winning jewellers of the Mauboussin family, and especially lux- ury companies such as Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels were the source of significant innovations. The ’Expo- sition internationale des arts décoratifs et industriels modernes’ in Paris in 1925 was a landmark event for the entire period. From this eventful time come some distinctive piec- es of jewellery in the 2 December auction, including a French platinum bracelet from around 1930 (ill. 4), with a belt-buckle motif. This elegant accessory is set with one brilliant-cut and numerous circular-cut dia- monds, totalling circa 15 carats. A pair of emerald ear- rings from1925 as well as an emerald ring fromaround 1930 feature gemstones of an intense green colour. Emeralds were already appreciated by the ancient Egyptians, who mined, processed and traded them as early as the 13 th century BCE. Also on 2 December, the Watches auction features a steel watch that Longines produced in 1935 in a small edition for the Japanese market. In the 1930s, Lon- gines, Switzerland’s largest manufacturer at the time, was an important supplier of wristwatches for war pi- lots and military personnel of various nations, includ- ing the Japanese troops. 3 4 2 1